...

Intro

From routine sewer inspections to emergency water‑main repairs, lifting manhole covers is a task that utility crews, road‑maintenance teams and even DIY property owners encounter. Because these lids can tip the scales well over 100 kg (220 lb), knowing how to lift a manhole cover correctly is critical for safety, speed and back‑health. In this guide you’ll learn:

  • How much do manhole covers weight (and why)

  • The pros and cons of every popular manhole cover removal method, from a simple pry bar to a full hydraulic lifter

  • Step‑by‑step tips that minimise risk and comply with most site‑safety rules

Whether you’re gearing up for your first remove manhole cover job or simply want to upgrade your toolkit, read on.

How Much Does a Manhole Cover Weigh?

The weight of any given lid depends on three factors: load class, material and diameter.

Load class (EN 124) Typical use case Ø 600 mm (24 in) cast‑iron cover Ø 900 mm (35 in) heavy‑duty cover
A15 (<1.5 t) Pedestrian area 35–60 kg (77–132 lb) n/a
B125 (<12.5 t) Driveways, car parks 70–110 kg (154–243 lb) 120–180 kg (265–397 lb)
C250 / D400+ Highways, lorry yards 110–160 kg (243–353 lb) 190–250 kg (419–551 lb)

Why the heft?

  1. Load resistance – heavy traffic must not break or dislodge the lid.

  2. Stability – added mass keeps covers seated during vibration.

  3. Anti‑theft – sheer weight discourages opportunistic scrap‑metal theft.

Take‑away: plan your lifting strategy around worst‑case numbers—assume at least 100 kg unless you have manufacturer data.

Learn More: How Heavy Is A Manhole Cover

How to Lift a Manhole Cover

Below are six proven techniques, arranged from low‑tech to fully mechanised. Always cordon off the work zone and wear PPE (gloves, safety boots, eye protection) before beginning any manhole cover removal.

Manual Lifting with Pry Bar or Screwdriver

Best for: light lids in pedestrian zones or very old covers without key slots.

  1. Brush or scrape debris out of the seating ring.

  2. Insert a flat‑blade screwdriver to crack the seal.

  3. Slide a 1 m (3 ft) pry bar underneath the edge; rock it like a lever.

  4. Roll or flip the lid clear—never try to carry it away while bent forward.

Pros: zero speciality tools; works in tight spaces.
Cons: High risk of back strain; ineffective on lids >80 kg (175 lb).

Manhole Cover Keys

Best for: standard municipal or telecom covers drilled with twin holes or slots.

  1. Select keys that match the slot geometry (T‑key, J‑hook, etc.).

  2. Insert both keys; pull upward in unison or use a buddy for balance.

  3. Lay the lid on edge and roll it aside.

Pros: Lightweight, inexpensive, quick.
Cons: Won’t work if slots are damaged or filled with asphalt.

Lever‑Based Tools

A purpose‑built fulcrum bar delivers up to 6:1 mechanical advantage.

  1. Hook the chisel tip through the key slot.

  2. Place the built‑in foot plate on the ground as a pivot.

  3. Push the handle down; the lid “pops” up with minimal effort.

Pros: Cuts spinal load roughly in half versus straight pulls.
Cons: Needs space for the 1 m‑plus handle arc.

Magnetic Lifters

Neodymium magnets generate 400 – 1 000 kg of clamping force—ideal for lids without slots.

  1. Center the magnet on the lid; engage the ON lever.

  2. Tilt the handle back until the lid clears the seating ring.

  3. Wheel the assembly clear or rest the lid on edge.

  4. Turn magnet OFF to release.

Pros: Fast, single‑operator, no slot required.
Cons: Expensive; useless on composite or stainless‑steel covers; magnet faces must stay clean.

Mechanical / Hydraulic Lifters

The safest option for lifting manhole covers over 200 kg.

  1. Position the dolly so its lifting claws (or magnets) straddle the lid.

  2. Pump the hydraulic jack or engage the winch to raise the cover vertically.

  3. Roll the dolly away; reverse to replace.

Pros: Minimal manual force; reduces lost‑time injuries; some models fold for van storage.
Cons: Highest upfront cost; learning curve for new users.

Water Lubrication with Tapping

A rescue method when corrosion or asphalt has “glued” the lid solid.

  1. Pressure‑wash the joint line; flood with penetrant or soapy water.

  2. Wait 5–10 minutes.

  3. Tap around the rim with a rubber mallet to loosen rust scales.

  4. Retry any of the lifting methods above.

Pros: Adds only a hose and mallet to existing toolkit.
Cons: Time‑consuming; messy; won’t help on cracked or warped lids.

Conclusion

Manhole cover removal doesn’t need to be a back‑breaking gamble. First, verify how much do manhole covers weight on your site; assume triple‑digit kilos for vehicle‑rated lids. Start with the simplest tool that keeps you under accepted manual‑handling limits (usually 25 kg per person). When weights climb—or when you face rust‑locked lids—graduate to magnetic or hydraulic solutions.

By matching the right gear to the job, you’ll cut labour time, reduce injury risk and keep those crucial underground systems running smoothly. Happy (and safe) lifting manhole covers!

Seraphinite AcceleratorOptimized by Seraphinite Accelerator
Turns on site high speed to be attractive for people and search engines.